Elena in CH

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Want to see what the hike actually looks like? I filmed it for you.

Long story short We hiked from Vitznau all the way to Rigi Kulm – no funicular, no cable car, no cogwheel train. Just us, our legs, homemade pizza and some very questionable trail navigation. No pain, no gain.

We left Lucerne early in the morning, and I mean early. We deliberately chose an early start because nobody wants to be melting in the sun halfway up a mountain. We took the 7:06 train from Lucerne Bahnhof, changed to a bus at Küssnacht am Rigi Bahnhof, and finally reached Vitznau station, our starting point.

From Vitznau, the destination was Rigi Kulm, the very top of the mountain. According to the signs, that’s a 4-hour hike. The plan was to break it up with a snack stop at Rigi Kaltbad, which is “only” 2 hours 50 minutes away. We use “only” loosely.

A note before you go

We went on the 1st of May, and on the trail from Vitznau towards Rigi Kaltbad there was a detour in place. The main trail (the dashed section) was closed due to falling rocks. As you can see on the map below, the alternative route (in orange) descends all the way to the river, crosses the valley, and then climbs back up to reconnect with the original trail further ahead. Well handled on their part, but the frustrating bit is that you lose all the altitude you’d already gained and have to earn it back again.

Before heading out, check this map to make sure the trail is back to normal

How to get to Vitznau

The hiking

The trail from Vitznau up to Rigi Kulm is beautiful – the view gets better with every step, which is exactly the kind of motivation you need when your legs are starting to complain. Along the way you’ll pass cows (obviously, this is Switzerland), and at some point you’ll find yourself crossing or walking alongside the cogwheel train tracks.

Between one “are we on the right trail?” and a “I don’t think this is it” moment, we eventually found our way. Navigation was not our strongest point that day – but we made it.

Rigi Kaltbad – the halfway stop

After approximately 2 hours 50 minutes, we reached Rigi Kaltbad, a small village on the mountain with stunning views and a beautiful spa (Mineralbad & Spa Rigi Kaltbad). The spa is actually not as expensive as you’d expect for Switzerland – a daily ticket is CHF 41, which for a full spa day with those views is pretty reasonable.

We had a quick snack break, soaked in the view for a few minutes, and then kept going. The sign said 1 hour 5 minutes to Rigi Kulm – we did it in 50 minutes. Turns out the snack break was good fuel.

Rigi Kulm – the top

We were definitely not the only ones with this idea. Rigi Kulm was busy – which makes sense since anyone can get up there by train without breaking a sweat. But the view makes it worth every extra person.

From the top you get a breathtaking 360-degree panorama of the Swiss Alps, 13 lakes (including Lake Lucerne, Zug, and Lauerz), and the Swiss Plateau. On clear days, you can even see the Black Forest in Germany and the Vosges mountains in France.

We found a spot on the grass, spread out a beach towel and had lunch – the homemade pizza I’d made the day before. Even cold, it was absolutely delicious. If you want the recipe, it’s right here. Katia also took a little nap, which felt very well deserved.

The way down – towards Weggis

We headed down following the signs for Weggis, passing through Rigi Staffelhöhe. From there it’s about 2 hours 30 minutes down – the path winds through quiet woodland, and we barely crossed anyone. The contrast with the busy summit was actually really lovely. Just us, the trees and the sound of nature.

By the time we reached the bottom, we could no longer feel our legs. Stretching afterwards is highly recommended.

The boat back to Lucerne

We ended the long day in the best way possible – a boat from Weggis back to Lucerne.

We got there around 6pm, and since we both have the GA Night, we could have waited until 7pm to get the boat for free, as it’s included in the pass. We did not wait. Our legs made that decision for us.

A post about the GA Night is coming soon! It’s definitely something worth knowing if you use public transport often

From the boat, you can also spot Meggenhorn, the fairy tale castle on the lake shore. If you haven’t been there yet, it’s worth a visit (and it’s completely free). Oh, and if you look up, you can also spot Rigi Kulm way up in the distance, looking tiny and very far away.

To summarize

• Leave early – the heat on the way up is no joke
• Bring your own food – eating at the top is expensive and your homemade lunch will taste better anyway
• Wear sunscreen and bring a cap – there’s very little shade near the top
• Stretch afterwards

Have you ever hiked Rigi? Or are you adding this to your list? 

I’d love to know! Drop a comment below, and share this with a friend who’s always up for a good day out.